Natural bamboo is a light color. During manufacturing, all bamboo strips are subjected to a bleaching process where strong oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide are used. These bleaching agents suppress color differences and oxidize troublesome organic matter. If care is not exercised bamboo flooring problems are created as the bamboo can be left too soft or the process can leave residual oxidizing agents that can react with finishes and cause them to peel at a later date.

When bamboo flooring is caramelized it is usually seen as a brownish or coffee color. The carbonizing process creates this dark color by a steaming or heating process. This steaming process darkens the sugar content of the bamboo.

To create many of the other colors seen in bamboo stains and finishes are used. There are a number of different finishes used on both site finished and factory finished bamboo floors. These finishes include penetrating sealers, polyurethane, Swedish finish (acid cure), moisture cure urethane, water-based urethane, oil modified urethane, water base urethane acrylic and others.  Finishes have additives such as ceramic or aluminum oxide to make the floor more durable.

Bamboo Flooring Care Penetrating Sealer

Penetrating sealer penetrates into the wood or bamboo where it hardens.  As its name implies, the sealer soaks into the wood pores and then hardens to seal the floor against dirt and certain stains. Since the sealer has penetrated it will wear only as the floor wears.  At the surface, the sealer delivers a low-gloss satin finish that wears only as the wood wears. Because of this, color may be added to the liquid sealer at the time of application. Penetrating sealer will not chip or scratch.

When an area shows wear, it can be refinished. The new application of sealer will blend into the old without lap marks or other signs of repair.

• Usually maintained with a thin application of wax.
• Refinish worn areas by cleaning and applying another coat of sealer or using a reconditioning product.  Sanding will usually not be required.
• With a sealer/wax system two coats of penetrating sealer is recommended by most manufacturers.

Water Base and Oil Base Finishes

These surface finishes include polyurethane, varnish, shellac, and lacquer. The maintenance of these finishes is different from that of penetrating sealers.

• Polyurethane “Swedish finish”, moisture cure urethane and water-based urethane are a few of the many blends of synthetic resins, plasticizers and other film-forming ingredients.  Polyurethane is durable and moisture resistant, available in high, low and semi gloss.  Urethanes other than moisture cured are a good choice for higher moisture areas such as kitchens.
• Oil Modified Polyurethane: Durable and moisture resistant.  Usually will take on an amber color with age.
• Water Base Urethane Acrylic: Clean I color, non-yellowing and durable.  Has similar advantages to oil modified without the odor of mineral spirits during application.
• Moisture Cure Urethane: Hardens with a greater moisture resistance than the other surface finishes.  Usually available only in gloss.
• “Swedish Finishes” (Acid cure urethane): Durable finish, usually harder than polyurethane’s, resist yellowing, clear in color.
• Varnish finishes may have a gloss level that is high, medium, or low. Varnish is slow drying and tends to darken with age and is difficult to touch up. If the quality is good, a varnish finish will provide a highly durable surface. If not, it tends to become brittle, to powder, and to show white scars.
• Shellac is still frequently used in some parts of the country. Shellac is fast drying. Liquid spills, however, can be difficult to remove. The abrasive action of footsteps can create frictional heat that softens the finish making it easy for dirt to scar the floor. Waxing is essential to protect the finish.
• Lacquer dries even faster than shellac and should be applied by a skilled individual. Lacquer produces a tough, high sheen that is difficult to maintain and scuff marks shown easily.

Bamboo Flooring Care Stain & Wax Finish

• Following installation apply a coat of wax.
• Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove loose dirt before it scratches or gets ground into the surface.
• Buff floor between waxing to restore sheen.  A heavier buffing machine will give a higher sheen than a lightweight machine.  Use only fiber bristle brush.  Frequent waxing may be required in dry or damp weather climates or areas of high traffic.

Bamboo Flooring Care Urethane Floors

• Clean per manufacturer recommendations after installation.
• Sweep and vacuum regularly.
• Maintain with a manufacturer recommended product.

Removing Spots and Stains From Bamboo Flooring

The majority of stains can be prevented by wiping up spills immediately and keeping a good coat of wax on the floor when allowed for the type of finish. Still accidents do occur or spills go unnoticed so here are a few tips for the special bamboo flooring problems that may occur.

Dried milk or food: Carefully scrape off the dried food then rub the spot with a damp cloth. Once dry rewax the area.

Standing water: Use No. 00 steel wool to rub the area and rewax. If  you are unable to remove with the steel wool you may need to lightly sand the area with a fine grit sandpaper. Clean the spot and the area around it using No. 1 steel wool and mineral spirits or a proprietary floor cleaner. Once the floor has dried apply a matching finish to the floor and feather it out and into the surrounding area. Wax once the finish has completely dried.

Dark spots: Using No. 1 steel wool clean the spot and surrounding area with a good floor cleaner or mineral spirits. Thoroughly wash the spotted area with white vinegar. Allow the vinegar to remain for 3 to 4 minutes. When a spot remains it may be necessary to sand it with a fine grit sandpaper, feathering out 3 to 4 inches beyond the stain into the surrounding area, then rewax and polish.

When repeated applications of vinegar do not remove the spot an oxalic acid solution can be applied directly onto the spot. Use measured proportions of 1 ounce oxalic acid to 1 quart water, or fractions thereof. When using oxalic extra care must be taken as it is dangerous.

Warning Oxalic acid is a poison. Use rubber gloves. Pour a small amount directly on the spot and let the solution stand 1 hour. Sponge the spot with clear water. A second treatment may be helpful if the spot refuses to yield.

If a second application of oxalic acid fails, sand the area with No. 00 sandpaper and apply a matching finish. Feather the finish out and into the surrounding floor area. Let dry Buff lightly with No. 00 steel wool. Apply a second coat of finish, let it dry, and then wax. If the spot is still visible, the only remaining remedy is to replace the affected flooring.

Warning Oxalic acid is a bleaching agent. Whenever it is used, the treated floor area will probably have to be stained and refinished to match the original color.

Ink: Use the same procedures as for other dark spots.

Animal Urine and Diaper: Spots that are not too old may sometimes be removed in the same manner as other dark spots. When spots resist cleaning efforts refinishing may be required.

Mold: Mold or mildew is a surface condition that is caused by damp, stagnant conditions. Make sure that the area receives proper ventilation to control future growth. Mold can usually be removed with a good cleaning fluid.

Chewing Gum, Crayon, Candle Wax: Apply ice to the stain until the deposit is brittle enough to crumble. Gently scrape off then use a cleaning fluid around the area, but not on it, allow the fluid to soak under the deposit to loosen.

Heel marks, caster marks, etc: Vigorously rub with fine steel wool and a good floor cleaner. Wipe the area dry and polish.

Cigarette burns: If not too deep they can sometimes be removed by rubbing with steel wool. Moisten the steel wool with soap and water to increase its effectiveness.

Alcohol: Rub with a liquid or paste wax, silver polish, boiled linseed oil, or a cloth that has been dampened barely in ammonia. Once dry rewax the affected area.

Oil and grease: Rub on a high lye content kitchen soap or saturate cotton with hydrogen peroxide and place it over the stain. Saturate a second layer of cotton with ammonia and place it over the first. Repeat this process until the stain is removed.

Wax build-up: When floors have not been properly cared for they may acquire a wax build-up. Strip the old wax using mineral spirits or naphtha. Using rags and fine steel wool to remove all residue before you apply a new wax. By performing a complete stripping before the floor becomes too bad the job will be easier and the beauty of your floor maintained

Warning Naphtha is extremely flammable. Use it only where there is no open flame or danger of spark and provide ample ventilation.

The major component in most cleaning chemicals is water. With most installed floor products, water mixed with some type of cleaning chemical is used to maintain them. Some bamboo and wood care and finishing products also have water as a main component.  What many end-users do not understand is that water improperly controlled can have a detrimental effect on bamboo and wood floors. When manufacturing literature can be misleading for while it may state that water can damage the floor, it goes on to list damp mopping as a suitable way to maintain the floor.  The end user needs to understand that damp means almost dry, usually a mist of cleaner (preferably applied directly to the applicator) followed with a dry towel and not a wrong-out sponge or string mop.  Below we have listed a number of other Bamboo Flooring Care Do’s and Don’ts.

BAMBOO FLOORING CARE DO’S

• Install humidity controls.  The use of a dehumidifier or humidifier is critical in areas with frequent variations in temperature and humidity.
• Sweep with soft bristle broom or dust mop the floor daily.  Walking on dusty or dirty floors will damage the finish.
• Vacuum the floor regularly using a floor tool and not a beater brush.
• Clean spots from the floor by rubbing with a lightly dampened cloth.  Spray the cleaning product onto the cloth and not the floor. Use a cleaning product acceptable to the manufacturer.  Your dealer, installer or a wood flooring company can assist you with this.
• Purchase a “floor care kit” recommended by the installer or retailer.
• Dry up spills immediately.
• Use felt or similar soft protectors on the legs or feet of furniture.
• Use throw rugs at locations where soil may be tracked onto the floor or at areas subject to regular pivotal traffic such as in front of a kitchen sink, or sofa or chair.
• Area rugs should be moved occasionally so that natural fading of the floor will be evened out.
• Use mats at outside doors to assist keeping dirt and dust outdoors.
• Keep the outdoor walks and porches clean so dirt is not tracked on to the floor.
• Use barrel-type caster wheels or wide glides on furniture.
• Restore lost luster with a topcoat dressing.
• Recoat worn surfaces before the bamboo or wood is exposed to avoid re-sanding.
• Have the floor professionally screened and recoated before wear on the finish is too severe.  This may be several years down the road depending on care and use.

BAMBOO FLOORING CARE DON’T”S

• Do not use dust treatment sprays or chemicals.  These products may cause the floor to become slick or dull the surface.
• Do not use a vacuum beater brush, as it will damage the finish.  Use the vacuum floor tool.
• Do not wet mop the floor.  When using a damp mop, spray the cleaning product onto the mop and not by dipping the mop.  Remember that water is the number one cause of damage to a floor.
• Do not allow spills to dry on their own, wipe them up immediately.
• Do not regularly clean with water or water-based products. Clean only the soiled areas as needed.
• Do not use ammonia or ammonia products. Alkaline cleaners may cause strong yellowing and color changes.
• Do not use oil soap or oil soap products.
• Do not wax a urethane floor.
• Do not use rubber, foam-back or plastic mats as they may discolor floor.
• Do not walk on wood or bamboo floors with spike or stiletto heeled shoes.  Such footwear can produce a dynamic load in excess of 1000 PSI, even when worn by a person of small or average build. You are better off driving your car or walking an elephant on the floor.  The car has a load of 28 to 30 PSI and an elephant 50 to 100 PSI.
• Do not walk on a floor in shoes with bad heels.  A shoe in bad repair that has an exposed nail head can exert a force of 8,000 PSI, which is high enough to pulverize hardened concrete.

Bamboo flooring problems can be grouped into the following categories:

• Defects and Blemishes
  • Visual
  • Latent

• Site Related
  • Excessive Moisture or Relative Humidity
  • Improper Maintenance or Abuse

• Installation
  • Failure to inspect product prior to installation.
  • Improper installation
  • Improper installation products

• Specification
  • Improper selection or specification of flooring
  • Improper installation products
  • Not following the proper inspection and claims procedures

Bamboo Flooring Claims and further be divided into the following divisions.

Defects and Blemishes

Latent Problems are those that become apparent only after the flooring has been installed for a period of time.

Visual Problems are those that are readily visible and should be seen prior to or at the time of installation. Warranty Disclaimer found in many floor covering warranties including bamboo floors state:

Visual Defects

Industry quality control standards do not exist for bamboo flooring.  Some companies and individuals in the bamboo flooring industry are working toward them.  Until these standards come to fruition, the dealer and installer must be extra aware. United States industry standards set product defect tolerance at a maximum of 5%.

Not all bamboo flooring is manufactured the same way.  Some is manufactured using crude hand labor methods and other with modern precision machinery.  Not all manufacturers have the same quality controls standards.  Blemishes that may be perfectly acceptable in one part of the world may be considered a serious deficiency in another.

Even from the best manufacturers, flooring leaves with defects that are difficult to see until the floor is laid out or installed.  The lighting conditions are different at every installation and different then those of the production line.  Visual defects belong to the manufacturer prior to installation of the floor. The ownership of visual defects can change with its installation.

Some bamboo flooring leaves the manufacturer with visual defects that are so blatant that it is obvious that the company does not have proper inspection procedures or they were not being followed. Some manufacturers are going to work with the dealer and installer when defects are found and others are going to fight over a ten-dollar item.

Manufacturers and distributors want to know about problems so that a prompt correction can be made at a reasonable cost.  Once a defective floor has been installed it becomes much more expensive to correct or replace.  The dealer and installer must follow the proper procedure for reporting problems unless they wish to own them as their own.

Dealer and Installer Protection

Dealer and installer protection comes through the careful inspection of the product before it is installed and if necessary, stopping an installation until the manufacturer is notified when a serious overall defect is found. Unfortunately many dealers are placing this responsibility upon the installer alone without properly informing, training and compensation.  Nonetheless, any installer that installs a floor with visible defects may be inheriting some one else’s problem.

What happens if the installer decides on his own to install a defective product?

Too often during inspections the consumer states, “the installer pointed out the problem but went ahead with the job so that a days work would not be lost”.  The installer may not have lost that days work, but just might have to work many extra days in the future to pay for the replacement of the floor.

If only part of the material is involved the installer should be able to go ahead with the installation, ordering additional material to replace the defective or damaged boards. This keeps the installer from loosing a day’s work. The damage or flawed material needs to be saved for the manufacturer or distributor unless authorization is received to dispose of it.

The Wise Installer and Dealer

Another common statement heard from consumers during an inspection is, “the installer saw a problem and called the dealer and the dealer instructed the installer to go ahead with the installation”.  This was a wise installer, by following the proper procedure the problem was transferred to the dealer and if the dealer was wise, authorization to proceed was obtained from the manufacturer or distributor, placing the problem where it originally belonged.

Are the strips the same thickness and width?

Are their cavities where the adhesive has not been applied properly?

• Site Related
  • Excessive Moisture or Relative Humidity
  • Improper Maintenance or Abuse

Typical warranty exclusions include:

• Abuse, lack of maintenance, neglect, abnormal use or misuse, negligence
• Application of solvents, corrosives or other chemicals to the flooring
• Color change, fading or damage due to exposure to the sun
• Excessive pivot and point-loads, spike-heeled shoes, unpadded furniture legs
• Water damage from maintenance, spills, leakage, uncontrolled humidity
• Excessive dryness or heat
• Damage from sand, pebbles or other abrasives
• Insect infestation after shipment from the point of origin
• Stains and finishes not applied by the manufacturer
• Improper alterations of original manufactured product
• Settlement or movement of the building structure
• Installation over un-level substrates
• Installation over radiant floor heating with a surface temperature over 85°F.
• Variations in color, grain and markings that exist in the flooring when new.
• “Acts of God” such as hurricanes, tornadoes, earthquakes and floods.

Humidity: A controlled humidity is one of the most important things that the home or building owner can do to protect bamboo and wood floors. The ideal deal humidity is 30-60% and it should never be lower than 30%.  This will vary some among manufacturers. As with wood, the end user should use a dehumidifier and/or a humidifier as may be required for their area.

Radiant Heat: Room temperature should not vary more than 15 degrees season to season.  35% – 55% humidity is required in a home with radiant floor in all seasons.

Concrete subfloor must have a moisture content below 3% by weight.  Heat transfer plates or insulation must be in place under pipes under plywood subfloors.

Radian floors bust be a minimum of 1 ¼” below the surface of the concrete or a minimum or 1/8” below the bottom of plywood subfloor.

Dents (indentations): Bamboo is very hard but it will dent.  Felt pads should be used on chair legs.  When casters are used they need to be a minimum of 1 ½” wide in plastic or rubber.  Remember, a 100-pound woman in worn high heels will exert more PSI pressure on the floor than a full-grown elephant.  An exposed nail head can exert a force of 8,000 PSI, which will even damage concrete.

Maintenance:

• Vacuum or sweep to remove dirt and grit prior to cleaning floors
• Soak up liquid from spills promptly
• Use area rugs in high traffic areas
• Install fellt protectors on the feet or legs of furniture
• Do not use alkaline cleaning agents as they may cause color change
• Do not damp mop as excess water may cause cup and swell
• Do not use wax, oil soap
• Use only cleaners recommended by the manufacturer.
• On some floors worn areas can be recoated which should be done prior to enough exposure to where the bamboo requires sanding.

Installation

• Failing to inspect product prior to installation.
• Improper installation of flooring
• Improper installation products

Failing to inspect product prior to installation.

As stated earlier, manufacturer warranties do not cover materials that have been installed with visible defects or of a different color or quality then that which was ordered.  The only way for an installer to protect him or herself is to take the required time to check the product.

• Have the consumer check the product for style and color before it is installed. Warranties on bamboo flooring do not cover variations in color or variations between samples and the installed floor. These type of problems need to be found prior to installation.
  • Color Variations: Bamboo is a grass and as with trees, variations in color naturally occur.
  • Each package of product needs to be inspected for differences in color.  Color variations need to be staggered throughout the installation.
  • The installer needs to check the floor for visible defects and blemishes.  A description of many visual defect and blemishes will be found above, under that heading.  As previously stated, warranties exclude materials that have been installed with visible defects.

• Check the quality and product number for accuracy. The cost of material and labor will not be paid when a floor that was the wrong quality or color is installed.

Acclimation:

The failure to properly acclimate the material is the number one installation problem.  All to often the dealer and installer mistakenly believe that since the material came from a heated storage facility it will be just fine and that is not the case.  Unless you are able to recreate the normal heat and humidity conditions of the installation and few will be able to do so, there is no replacement for acclimatizing at the site.

Site acclimation does not mean placing the material in the garage and installing it from there.  It also does not mean placing all of the material in the building next door or down the street and taking it to the installation, as you need it. Flooring needs to be allowed to acclimatize.  Manufacturers recommendation range between 48 and 72 hours on-site.  The acclimation period needs to be at the expected normal room temperature and humidity levels before and after installation.  Damp or cold conditions before installation need to be avoided.

Installation Moisture and Humidity Considerations:

Bamboo is more stable than most wood but like wood it can be damaged when in direct content with moisture.  Pretty much the same rules apply to bamboo floors as they do for wood when installing this product.

• Moisture variance between subfloor and material:

No more than a 2% difference in moisture content should be present at the time of installation.  A difference greater than this may lead to floor failure.

• Moisture Content Bamboo:  Bamboo moisture content is about 6 – 8% prior to installation.  This may vary slightly among manufacturers.

• Moisture Content Subfloor:  A wood substrate should be no higher than 12% at the time of installation and a concrete slab no greater than 4%.  This will vary among manufacturers.

• Concrete subfloor must be tested for moisture and a vapor retarder such as 6-mil polyethylene film on the subfloor. The polyethylene needs to be ran up the wall so that it is visible until covered by molding. Edges should be overlapped 8” and the seams taped.  (These requirements will vary among manufacturers and products.)

• Ideal humidity, prior to during and following installation is 30-60%. Humidity should never be lower than 30%. These percentages will vary slightly among manufacturers. As with wood, the end user should use a dehumidifier and/or a humidifier as may be required for their area.

• At the time of installation, temperature settings should be within 15 degrees Fahrenheit of normal living conditions.

The most commonly recommended moisture test is the Anhydrous Calcium Chloride.

Radiant Heat: Room temperature should not vary more than 15 degrees season to season.  35% – 55% humidity is required in a home with radiant floor in all seasons.

Concrete subfloor must have a moisture content below 3% by weight.  Heat transfer plates or insulation must be in place under pipes under plywood subfloors.

Radian floors bust be a minimum of 1 ¼” below the surface of the concrete or a minimum or 1/8” below the bottom of plywood subfloor.

Subfloor Suitability: With all flooring products it is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the subfloor and job site conditions are acceptable for the installation.

Substrate must be level: The tolerance is usually about 3/16” in an 8 foot radiau, and high spots need to be ground from the surface.  Manufacturers recommendations will vary.

Expansion space:  Most products require expansion space around all walls and fixed objects.  The required space ranges from ¼” t0 ¾” varing with product and manufacturer.  Under some conditions additional expansion space will be required.  Door casings and other fixed objects may require undercutting to allow for sufficient expansion space.

Radiant Heat:  Must not produce temperatures in execess of 85 degrees Fahrenheit.  Needst to be in operation and ran at normal living temperature for a minimum of seven (7) days prior to installation. One or two days prior to installation the unit should be turned off.  At the time of installation the subfloor must be 64-68 degrees Fahrenheit.)

Specification

Improper selection or specification of either the flooring material or the method of installation

Improper installation products

Not following the proper inspection and claims procedures.

Radiant Heat: Room temperature should not vary more than 15 degrees season to season.  35% – 55% humidity is required in a home with radiant floor in all seasons.

Concrete subfloor must have a moisture content below 3% by weight.  Heat transfer plates or insulation must be in place under pipes under plywood subfloors.

Radian floors bust be a minimum of 1 ¼” below the surface of the concrete or a minimum or 1/8” below the bottom of plywood subfloor.

In future pages and chapters we will discuss identification of visual defects and installation problems. We will also suggest ways in which many problems may be corrected to the consumer’s satisfaction.

Identifying the hard side of the culm:  Bamboo stalk also known, as culm is harder on the outside than on the inside.  A higher concentration of vascular bundles, or capillaries, along with the associated silicate deposits, on the outside of the culm is responsible for this phenomenon. Each strip cut from the culm and used in flooring is harder on one side than on the other.  Looking at an end cut of a strip and noting the much higher concentration of the “dots” or capillaries that are found on the hard side can often identify the hard side.

Bend or Curl: As with strips or planks cut from a tree, the bamboo strips want to bend or curl in a predictable direction.  The bending or flex force is very powerful.  During manufacturing it is critical that the forces associated with these natural flex tendencies be directionally balanced with each bamboo flooring board.

Peeling of Finish: Over Bleaching: Natural colored boards may have a very bleached uniform color.  All strips are subjected to bleaching with strong oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide to suppress color variations and organic mater.  Excessive bleaching can soften the flooring and leave a residual oxidizing agent that can react with the finish and produce peeling of the finish.

Formaldehyde in product adhesive: Two adhesives are commonly used in the wood-laminates (plywood, particle board, flooring). 1. Adhesive based on urea formaldehyde (UF) resin.    2. Adhesive based of phenol formaldehyde (PF) resin.  Both kinds of adhesive “out gas”, or give up, low levels of formaldehyde from the final products in which they are used.  Formaldehyde is a low molecular weight material that is a gas at room temperature and pressure. As a result, it will vaporize to a small degree under normal living conditions.

Formaldehyde is both a naturally occurring chemical and an industrial chemical (formaldehyde is synthesized by the catalytic oxidation of methanol).  In addition to its industrial use if fiber board, it is found in dry cleaning chemicals, paper products, no-iron fabrics, diapers, pillow cases, cosmetics, paints, cigarette smoke, the exhaust from automobiles, gas appliances, fireplaces and wood burning stoves.  It also occurs naturally in forest and is a necessary metabolite in human cell chemistry.

As a rule, adhesives formulated with PF give of slightly less formaldehyde than resins formulated with UF.  PF rein has very good resistance to water making it the resin of choice of out door applications.  The resin of PF is very dark brown to black in color and not suitable for indoor use where an invisible glue line is preferred.  Over 95% of interior-use hardwood plywood is manufactured using a urea-formaldehyde or UF adhesive.  All bamboo hardwood-flooring manufacturers are presently using UF based adhesives.

Today’s hardwood plywood products emit 60-90% less formaldehyde than products manufactured in the early to mid 1980’s.

Safe formaldehyde emissions limits from wood products are mandated in the United States.  This standard, developed in 1985 by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), is 0.2 parts per million (ppm) as measured by the “large-chamber” test method.

In November 1987, OSHA proposed that the occupational standard for formaldehyde exposure be reduced from 3 parts per million (ppm) to 1 ppm, averaged over and 8-hour workday; this proposal became law the following month.  In May of 1992 the law was amended and the formaldehyde exposure limit was reduced to 0.75 ppm.  (Information is available form the Occupational Safety and Health Administration, Public Affairs Office, Room N3647, 200 Constitution Avenue, NW. Washington, DC 20210.  You may also contact the Public Affairs Office by calling 202-693-1999.)

Conversion to Parts Per Million by Volume:

The conversions from “0.02 mg of formaldehyde per cubic meter of air” to “ppmv (parts per million by volume).”  Converting at a molecular weight of formaldehyde, which is 30.03, the following calculations are made.

• At an ambient air pressure of 1 atmosphere and a temperature of 60 degrees F (15.56 degrees C), 0.02 mg of formaldehyde per cubic meter of air = 0.0149 ppmv
• At an ambient air pressure of 1 atmosphere and a temperature of 70 degrees F (21.11 degrees C), 0.02 mg of formaldehyde per cubic meter of air = 0.0152 ppmv
• At an ambient air pressure of 1 atmosphere and a temperature of 80 degrees F (26.87 degrees C), 0.02 mg of formaldehyde per cubic meter of air = 0.0155 ppmv

So why is bamboo so eco friendly does it not take food away from the panda? A panda must feed 12 to 16 hours a day, consuming 22 – 40 pounds of bamboo.  When eating fresh shoots, each panda will consume about 84 pounds of bamboo shoots in a day. It is estimated that their are only 700 – 1500 giant pandas that exist in the wild.  The giant panda is probably the best-known endangered animal. They compete with the farmers and are killed by the poachers. Bamboo is already being used for every other conceivable commodity from food, to housing, furniture, musical instruments, toys, tools, and just about anything else you can imagine.  Here we are taking more bamboo away from the Panda to make floor covering, or are we?

In Oregon we have environmentalist sitting at the top of trees in an attempt to keep them from being cut down.  Some trees sitters are there for months and even a year or longer. Competitive priced wood is no longer available in the United States for housing, flooring, and furniture and just about everything else.

We need oil and lots of it for the day-to-day operation of our automobiles, houses, factories and the manufacturing of a multitude of products including floor covering.  Most carpet, laminate and resilient is composed of oil-based products at least in part. Environmental concerns have made us dependant on foreign oil, from countries that have less stringent environmental regulations.

Even those of us in the floor covering industry want a clean environment.  We may be too busy to sit in a tree or block the construction of a pipeline, but when at the supermarket spending our hard earned cash, we still have to think fast when asked, paper or plastic?  Do I want to cut a tree today or build a pipeline?

In China you do not have people sitting atop the bamboo canes.  I imagine some would if they thought they could.   Kidding aside, all of us need to be concerned with out environment and I truly believe those of us in the floor covering industry do care.  Most all of us want to see the responsible use of our natural resources.  We want the beauty of our country and our world to be here for future generations to enjoy.

So if less than a thousand Panda Bears survive in the wild, and rely on bamboo for their source of food, are bamboo floors the answer?

Nearly all of the bamboo flooring sold in North America is produced in the southern Chinese province of Hunan.  This area is known as “the bamboo sea” for its extensive bamboo forests. The government owns the forest and individuals or companies can obtain contracts to harvest from them.  Contrary to the concerns of many, the harvesting in these forests is not a threat to Pandas, as they live at much higher elevations and eat a different species of bamboo.

The habitat today of the giant panda is six small areas located in inland China. This habitat is suitable for the 15 or so bamboo varieties on which the panda survives. The area is a cold, damp coniferous forest with elevations that range from 4,000 to 11,000 feet.

More than 1,000 species of bamboo are found worldwide. The Moso species (phyllostachys pubescens) is a popular species for flooring.  The Moso grows to about fifty feet in height and two feet in circumference. Moso is primarily found in the low mountain areas of Zhejiang province (It is in the Temperate Zone about 30 degrees North latitude).  The temperatures in this area range from below freezing in the winter to over 100 F in the summer.

Mao Zhu (hairy bamboo) is another popular bamboo used for flooring.  It is one of the hundreds of bamboo species not consumed by panda.

With its rapid growth cycle and abundance, bamboo floors really do appear to be environmental friendly.

Bamboo has a lot of applications in Asian countries and has been used in China for over 5000 years.  In 265-316 A.D in the Jin Dynasty a special book on bamboo was written with many of China’s bamboo species recorded in detail. In China, artisan products have been made with bamboo for ages: from chopsticks and kitchen utensils to musical instruments, from scaffolding to house structures. In the last decades bamboo also found an industrial application. Bamboo panels are the most recent industrial applications. This makes bamboo a new eco source for the furniture industry and green interior builders.

It was not until about 1990 that engineered bamboo flooring was introduced to the U.S. market. At first people were intrigued by its beauty but for many this was an untested product and they were not quite ready to be among the first to have it installed on their own floor. Over the past 20 years the U.S. market for bamboo has shown significant growth as more and more individuals have come to recognize bamboo not only as an attractive floor but also a very eco friendly floor.

While engineered bamboo is a relatively new addition to the wood flooring market it has experienced a continuing increase in sales.  Bamboo which is actually a grass instead of a wood has proven itself to be an environmentally friendly product.  It rejuvenates itself to full maturity in 4 to 5 years.  It has good hardness qualities, offers a unique distinctive pattern, good coloration and is installed and maintained the same way as hardwood.  Yes this eco friendly floor appears hear to stay.

The major component in many cleaning chemicals is water.  Water can have a detrimental effect on bamboo floors which is a hygroscopic material.  When bamboo is exposed to air its tendency is to either dry or gain in moisture.  The loss or gain in moisture will continue until the material is in equilibrium with the humidity and air temperature.  If too much moisture is gained the bamboo will swell and if too much moisture is lost it will shrink.  While bamboo is somewhat more stable then wood in this respect, both are affected.

Bamboo is dimensional stable at its saturation point of about 25–30% moisture content.  Below this point it begins to shrink until it reaches 0%.  As it starts to gain in moisture it expands until it reaches the saturation point again.  Once back at the saturation point of 25-30% it again stabilizes.

When bamboo flooring is manufactured it is kiln dried to an average of 8-10%.  Bamboo when made into a floor is dried significantly below the saturation point.  Once at this point the flooring is expected to stabilize with the environment in which it is installed.  Since the floor still has a natural tendency to gain or loose moisture, it is imperative that the environment be maintained at a suitable level.

Bamboo flooring by its nature has greater dimensional stability and less expansion and contraction than traditional wood floors. This stability is further enhanced by its constructional lay up. In regard to moisture bamboo floors out perform solid wood flooring due to its innate moisture resistance and stability with minimal expansion and contraction.

With engineered flooring the expansion will be significantly less.  The reason for this is that alternating layers of the laminate are prepared to run in opposite directions.  Since they are not all running in the same direction they have a natural tendency to pull against one another, which helps to maintain stability. While the engineered floor is more stable in this respect, equilibrium moisture content still remains critical.  The moisture content of wood and bamboo that is in storage or installed at a point below its fiber saturation point has a natural tendency to fluctuate.  This fluctuation is a result of changes in the relative humidity and air temperature within the environment in which the material is stored or installed.

Bamboo flooring and engineered flooring are indeed your better choices for bathrooms, kitchens and over concrete as they are more stable for these areas than a solid wood floor.

Bamboo Flooring Problems has found that some bamboo manufacturers tend to make doubtful claims as to bamboo flooring hardness. In some situations the bamboo manufacturer will base the results of their bamboo floor hardness test by reporting the Janka values of test made on the “knuckle” or knot of the bamboo plant which occupies only a small fraction of the bamboo plant. Bamboo Flooring Problems has also found that while it is true that natural bamboo hardness can be as hard or harder than maple carbonized bamboo is significantly softer. Natural bamboo can range in hardness from 1350 – 1750 psi (pounds per square inch). Carbonized (aka Amber) bamboo will range from 1100 – 1300 psi as the bamboo is weakened by the carbonization process.

The chart below list the relative hardness for numerous wood species used in flooring as based on a modified Janka hardness test.  Bamboo and wood hardness is generally defined as resistance to indentation.  The higher the number the harder the wood. While Janka is one of the best methods to measure the ability of wood species to withstand indentations, it should be used as a guideline and not the only consideration when comparing various species of wood flooring. Factors such as construction and finish should also play important functions in the maintenance and durability of a bamboo floor.

It is important to realize that while a bamboo or wood floors hardness value is only an indicator as to performance and damage resistance. All bamboo and wood flooring are natural products and will dent, ding and scratch based on use, care and traffic. The values reported by Bamboo Flooring Problems are from a number of flooring industry, manufacturer and testing resources. As with all natural flooring product test the results may vary.

Bamboo Flooring Hardness Tables – Janka Hardness Test

* Natural bamboo can range in hardness from 1350 – 1750 psi (pounds per square inch). Carbonized (aka Amber) bamboo will range from 1100 – 1300 psi as the bamboo is weakened by the carbonization process.