Bamboo color and bamboo finish are important considerations in bamboo flooring care. For years the two most common colors of bamboo flooring were natural and a dark brown color that was created through carbonizing the bamboo. Today bamboo flooring colors are practically unlimited from off white to gold, tan, ash, oak, orange, amaretto, pecan, wenge, chestnut, black, blue or just about any other color you might imagine.
Natural bamboo is a light color. During manufacturing, all bamboo strips are subjected to a bleaching process where strong oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide are used. These bleaching agents suppress color differences and oxidize troublesome organic matter. If care is not exercised bamboo flooring problems are created as the bamboo can be left too soft or the process can leave residual oxidizing agents that can react with finishes and cause them to peel at a later date.
When bamboo flooring is caramelized it is usually seen as a brownish or coffee color. The carbonizing process creates this dark color by a steaming or heating process. This steaming process darkens the sugar content of the bamboo.
To create many of the other colors seen in bamboo stains and finishes are used. There are a number of different finishes used on both site finished and factory finished bamboo floors. These finishes include penetrating sealers, polyurethane, Swedish finish (acid cure), moisture cure urethane, water-based urethane, oil modified urethane, water base urethane acrylic and others. Finishes have additives such as ceramic or aluminum oxide to make the floor more durable.
Bamboo Flooring Care Penetrating Sealer
Penetrating sealer penetrates into the wood or bamboo where it hardens. As its name implies, the sealer soaks into the wood pores and then hardens to seal the floor against dirt and certain stains. Since the sealer has penetrated it will wear only as the floor wears. At the surface, the sealer delivers a low-gloss satin finish that wears only as the wood wears. Because of this, color may be added to the liquid sealer at the time of application. Penetrating sealer will not chip or scratch.
When an area shows wear, it can be refinished. The new application of sealer will blend into the old without lap marks or other signs of repair.
- Usually maintained with a thin application of wax.
- Refinish worn areas by cleaning and applying another coat of sealer or using a reconditioning product. Sanding will usually not be required.
- With a sealer/wax system two coats of penetrating sealer is recommended by most manufacturers.
Water Base and Oil Base Finishes
These surface finishes include polyurethane, varnish, shellac, and lacquer. The maintenance of these finishes is different from that of penetrating sealers.
- Polyurethane “Swedish finish”, moisture cure urethane and water-based urethane are a few of the many blends of synthetic resins, plasticizers and other film-forming ingredients. Polyurethane is durable and moisture resistant, available in high, low and semi gloss. Urethanes other than moisture cured are a good choice for higher moisture areas such as kitchens.
- Oil Modified Polyurethane: Durable and moisture resistant. Usually will take on an amber color with age.
- Water Base Urethane Acrylic: Clean I color, non-yellowing and durable. Has similar advantages to oil modified without the odor of mineral spirits during application.
- Moisture Cure Urethane: Hardens with a greater moisture resistance than the other surface finishes. Usually available only in gloss.
- “Swedish Finishes” (Acid cure urethane): Durable finish, usually harder than polyurethane’s, resist yellowing, clear in color.
- Varnish finishes may have a gloss level that is high, medium, or low. Varnish is slow drying and tends to darken with age and is difficult to touch up. If the quality is good, a varnish finish will provide a highly durable surface. If not, it tends to become brittle, to powder, and to show white scars.
- Shellac is still frequently used in some parts of the country. Shellac is fast drying. Liquid spills, however, can be difficult to remove. The abrasive action of footsteps can create frictional heat that softens the finish making it easy for dirt to scar the floor. Waxing is essential to protect the finish.
- Lacquer dries even faster than shellac and should be applied by a skilled individual. Lacquer produces a tough, high sheen that is difficult to maintain and scuff marks shown easily.
Bamboo Flooring Care Stain & Wax Finish
- Following installation apply a coat of wax.
- Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove loose dirt before it scratches or gets ground into the surface.
- Buff floor between waxing to restore sheen. A heavier buffing machine will give a higher sheen than a lightweight machine. Use only fiber bristle brush. Frequent waxing may be required in dry or damp weather climates or areas of high traffic.
Bamboo Flooring Care Urethane Floors
- Clean per manufacturer recommendations after installation.
- Sweep and vacuum regularly.
- Maintain with a manufacturer recommended product.
Removing Spots and Stains From Bamboo Flooring
The majority of stains can be prevented by wiping up spills immediately and keeping a good coat of wax on the floor when allowed for the type of finish. Still accidents do occur or spills go unnoticed so here are a few tips for the special bamboo flooring problems that may occur.
Dried milk or food: Carefully scrape off the dried food then rub the spot with a damp cloth. Once dry rewax the area.
Standing water: Use No. 00 steel wool to rub the area and rewax. If you are unable to remove with the steel wool you may need to lightly sand the area with a fine grit sandpaper. Clean the spot and the area around it using No. 1 steel wool and mineral spirits or a proprietary floor cleaner. Once the floor has dried apply a matching finish to the floor and feather it out and into the surrounding area. Wax once the finish has completely dried.
Dark spots: Using No. 1 steel wool clean the spot and surrounding area with a good floor cleaner or mineral spirits. Thoroughly wash the spotted area with white vinegar. Allow the vinegar to remain for 3 to 4 minutes. When a spot remains it may be necessary to sand it with a fine grit sandpaper, feathering out 3 to 4 inches beyond the stain into the surrounding area, then rewax and polish.
When repeated applications of vinegar do not remove the spot an oxalic acid solution can be applied directly onto the spot. Use measured proportions of 1 ounce oxalic acid to 1 quart water, or fractions thereof. When using oxalic extra care must be taken as it is dangerous.
Warning Oxalic acid is a poison. Use rubber gloves. Pour a small amount directly on the spot and let the solution stand 1 hour. Sponge the spot with clear water. A second treatment may be helpful if the spot refuses to yield.
If a second application of oxalic acid fails, sand the area with No. 00 sandpaper and apply a matching finish. Feather the finish out and into the surrounding floor area. Let dry Buff lightly with No. 00 steel wool. Apply a second coat of finish, let it dry, and then wax. If the spot is still visible, the only remaining remedy is to replace the affected flooring.
Warning Oxalic acid is a bleaching agent. Whenever it is used, the treated floor area will probably have to be stained and refinished to match the original color.
Ink: Use the same procedures as for other dark spots.
Animal Urine and Diaper: Spots that are not too old may sometimes be removed in the same manner as other dark spots. When spots resist cleaning efforts refinishing may be required.
Mold: Mold or mildew is a surface condition that is caused by damp, stagnant conditions. Make sure that the area receives proper ventilation to control future growth. Mold can usually be removed with a good cleaning fluid.
Chewing Gum, Crayon, Candle Wax: Apply ice to the stain until the deposit is brittle enough to crumble. Gently scrape off then use a cleaning fluid around the area, but not on it, allow the fluid to soak under the deposit to loosen.
Heel marks, caster marks, etc: Vigorously rub with fine steel wool and a good floor cleaner. Wipe the area dry and polish.
Cigarette burns: If not too deep they can sometimes be removed by rubbing with steel wool. Moisten the steel wool with soap and water to increase its effectiveness.
Alcohol: Rub with a liquid or paste wax, silver polish, boiled linseed oil, or a cloth that has been dampened barely in ammonia. Once dry rewax the affected area.
Oil and grease: Rub on a high lye content kitchen soap or saturate cotton with hydrogen peroxide and place it over the stain. Saturate a second layer of cotton with ammonia and place it over the first. Repeat this process until the stain is removed.
Wax build-up: When floors have not been properly cared for they may acquire a wax build-up. Strip the old wax using mineral spirits or naphtha. Using rags and fine steel wool to remove all residue before you apply a new wax. By performing a complete stripping before the floor becomes too bad the job will be easier and the beauty of your floor maintained
Warning Naphtha is extremely flammable. Use it only where there is no open flame or danger of spark and provide ample ventilation.
About Terry Weinheimer